persianchyld: Tuesday, August 5, 2014: The Covered Bazaar Part I

Tuesday, August 5, 2014: The Covered Bazaar Part I

I had made a promise to myself that I would take the time needed this trip to really explore Istanbul's covered bazaar. I'd popped in and out during previous trips, but it was always a maze that overwhelmed me. In order to know the market better, it was clear I would need to visit it multiple times, with a map in hand, and with the patience required to get lost and found again.

My first try was on Tuesday. It had not been my intention to visit the covered bazaar at all, but found myself at the Tığcılar Sokak gate by accident. I don't recall what I was looking for, but had taken to wandering these past days, turning this way and that, wishing to happen upon something I'd never seen before. When one of the bazaar's gates appeared before me of course I had to enter. Since I hadn't planned on visiting the bazaar, I hadn't brought my book which contained the bazaar maps and walking tours. Recalling stories of people unable to find their way out, I willed myself to get lost. But I was stiff that day walking through, unwilling to even turn my head to examine the merchandise. When merchants called out to me, I ignored them and carried on. I was unable to shed this coldness that had taken over me and my attempts to lose myself there didn't work. The bazaar's magic was lost on me because I didn't surrender myself to it.

Zincirli Han, 18th c.

Shopkeepers in Zincirli Han

I did manage to happen upon a couple of beautiful Hans, which are a kind of courtyard which were caravansaries built along trade routes that housed travelers and served as small commercial centers. There are hans throughout the covered bazaar, mostly around its periphery I later discovered when I looked at my maps. Without my book though, I knew little about what I was seeing, but I recognized that these were the hidden secrets I was supposed to be looking for. When, despite the few treasures I did find, I continued to find exit gates instead of ways deeper in to the bazaar, I took it as a message and departed, vowing to return with my map in hand.

The doner sandwich corner stand

But I wasn't done yet.

Hunger hit me quite suddenly when I discovered this corner doner stand about a block away from the Covered Bazaar. There were plastic stools lining the sidewalk overlooking an ancient wall where people sat munching on sandwiches. The salesman in his white hat was very kind as I hovered for a long time trying to figure out how the ordering worked and what I could choose. People seemed to know what they wanted and money changed hands so quickly I couldn't tell what things cost. He patiently showed me that the offerings were few, and nothing cost more than about $5. I ordered a half sandwich with a cup of ayran, a yoghurt drink that I am very familiar with since it is a popular drink in Iran as well. What a tasty lunch, and a sweet experience it was.

With my belly full, I wandered on, and took these snaps for you to enjoy.

I found the used book bazaar through the Gate
of Spoonmakers, a market that dates back to
the Byzantine era. David should have been here
to enjoy this

This Turk was trying to make his way through a
busy market without touching his feet to the ground,
in a full biker get-up. The little boy was trying so hard
to sell baby girl dresses to anyone who walked by